highperformanceamc

Okay, I'll start this section off.....

I am planning to put back the ORIGINAL 360 in my 72 Javelin. The 401 in there right now is coming out due to several problems and will end up being rebuilt to go in the 78 AMX . I need some advice as far as the 360 build goes. Again, I am pretty sure we all know that I am a poor cheap bastard, but I would like this motor to have some pretty good grunt. It will not be at the dragstrip, it will only be on the street as a cruiser. The drivetrain is a 727 to a Model 20 open diff 2.87. That will most likely be changed to a posi, 3.15ish gear not too far down the road. So the build needs to be for that future rear. Being that it will only be a cruiser, gas mileage is a concern. I have a 650 AFB that will be going on it and a set of Hooker Super Comp 1 7/8" headers (yes it's a bit much, but i have them!) How should i build this motor? New pistons are a must (moly or cast rings?) and I will need to buy an intake manifold (unless the 401 intake would be okay I guess). What do y'all think?

what heads do you have for the 360? what do you have for a convertor? stock? I think a performer would be better than a stock manifold. maybe you can get one for cheap. also those big headers are a ..well not so good idea. sometimes the big tube headers are a pain to seal up.

what heads do you have for it? and what convertor ? I know your cheap, and you wanna use those big headers cuz they're paid for, but i think I'd cheap up for some cheap headmans. those big headers are tough to seal and hang real low. yaknow I might just stick with the stock exhaust if I was feelin real cheap.

hey I replied but it went away.WTF?

wtf? my reply dissappeared

I don't know the casting numbers on the head, all I know is that they are the original set of heads that came on the 72 motor. I can check tomorrow. What I am needing the most help with is the cam choice. Would the Comp 270 be too much with the performer and stock converter? I would like to replace the stock converter with something a little better, but nothing more than maybe 2000. That would happen with the rear end/gear change which is later down the road.

Ya those headers are a bit much, but sure would be nice to use if I can get them to seal. Right now I run the "Free-flow" manifolds on the 401, I might just run those again just so I can save the money at the muffler shop chopping my current exhaust to bolt up to headers.

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<------ Dude, I am a posting whore and didn't even know it!!! 16777215 posts!

I also am a whore posting.

somthing fucked up i'll try and fix it.meantime everythings workin ok as it is.

i really dont have anything to add to the topic. just trying to get my share of being a whore of some type. better to be getting something rather than nothing right???
the only thing i actually can add is if your gonna make a cruiser and not a drag car why go with anything crazy or borader lined troublesome. i guess it depends on how much actual cruising you plan on doing. if your gonna drive it alot since your worried about the mpg i would recomend you stay with bullet proof setups. stay away from headers and anything above the "RV" cam ratings.

Your probably right. Stock shit works. Maddog has a "master rebuild kit" that is probably right up my alley.

# 8 stock dished Speed Pro pistons (9.0:1 w/stock heads)
# Hastings cast rings
# Clevite 77 RV torque camshaft
# 16 new Speed Pro lifters
# Clevite 77 main bearings
# Clevite 77 rod bearings
# Durabond seamless cam bearings
# Pioneer brass freeze plugs
# Fel Pro full gasket set
# Cloyes 3-piece timing set
# Melling oil pump kit.

All of this for $523. Can't really beat that I guess for what I am wanting to do. I figure that plus another $400-$500 worth of machine shop costs... Might get out of this build for less than $1400.

If your wanting to run 10's I think Headers are nessesary.the freeflows while good for stock shit,aint no good for racing.Since that Concords kinda roached in the frist place and yer on a budget.I'd gut it and leave only the important shit like lights,brakes and the vital guages and shitcan things like the wiper motor,the a/c and heater core and the rear seat and buzz in a 6 point roll bar and add a racing seat or two.

BADASS74GremlinX wrote:If your wanting to run 10's I think Headers are nessesary.the freeflows while good for stock shit,aint no good for racing.Since that Concords kinda roached in the frist place and yer on a budget.I'd gut it and leave only the important shit like lights,brakes and the vital guages and shitcan things like the wiper motor,the a/c and heater core and the rear seat and buzz in a 6 point roll bar and add a racing seat or two.

I think I confused you! The 360 build is a stock build for my 72 Javelin. The 78 Concord will be getting the 401 I am pulling out of the 72 Javelin.

401 out of Javelin - Rebuild for racing - Put in Concord.

Build original 360 for stock use - put in place of the 401 in the stock Javelin.

Yeah ,I meant the Concord.I thought someone on here was telling you to not use headers on it when you plan on running 10's I know you plan on restoring your Jav back somewhat original.

The Concord is my bitch. I'm gonna beat the hell out of her.

But right now I am yet again looking at building a turbo 4.0L.... I just can't get it out of my head. I keep looking at the Megasquirt thinking... "hell ya I can do that!" To me, a turbo 4.0L is just as cool..... if not cooler than having a 401. I could build it to run 11's on the track and maybe get 18 mpg as a cruiser. I just don't know!!