So, we should all know now that I have this 78 Concord AMX. The goal is to build the CHEAPEST racer I possibly can. Like the entire car built for less than a grand. This is a RACE only car. It will not be tagged or inspected. It will never see the streets. Right now it is stripped. That means no interior AT ALL. Just a steering column and pedals. The front end suspension is there with the brakes, but no front clip, no motor, no fenders, no nothing. The passenger floor is missing all together, the brakes are all shot, and the front suspension components look shot too. It's a 6 banger car with the 6 banger cross member, springs, brakes, and rear.

I have a 304, 727, and a posi 6 banger rear that I plan on using for a drivetrain (it's all sitting in the garage). I know everyone has there idea for a better motor, tranny, and rear.... but you aren't working with my budget either, so these items will be used. So, what I need help with is a plan. I HAVE TO BE SAFE! First and foremost is safety! So, I will want to replace all the brakes and suspension to insure that it won't fail at speed and put me in the wall. I do not have a fuel system plan yet and I don't even know if my current tank is good or not. I am missing the entire ignition system (no dizzy, plugs, wires, etc.) I have access to a radiator, but it needs rebuilt. There is more but I can't remember.

I have only restored cars, never built a budget junker race car. How do I do it? What needs to happen first? Do I prep the car first, meaning redo the suspension and brakes, get the rear in and ready, and figure out my wheel tire combo? OR, do I start by figuring out how to put the 304 in and mock up all the drivetrain? Or do I just put brakes on it and say fuck the suspension and see if the car runs good enough?

I really don't know the right way to do it... or should I say not the restoration way. I need serious help making a plan so I have something to stick too so I can actually make progress. Please feel free to ask questions and give your opinion.

BTW: I also have access to a v8 cross member and v8 motor mount brackets... an option to the bulltear mounts.

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I'm gonna race something soon... damnit.

I'd start with getting the driveline in, then do the brakes and suspension. This way you can see how the front end is gonna sit too with the 8 in it. and ya don't wanna say fuck it to any bad brake of suspension components.


I know all about the budget/ or lack of one. In the last 10 years the only thing done to my car to make it faster is going from the stock electric pump, to a Holley Red. Was good for bringing my car from 14.6s @ 94 to 14.0 @ 99.55. 75 bux = 1/2 sec to the good. That's some bang for tha buck.

you need to stick to a plan. any plan. and thats 99% non bullshit.

Bulltear mounts for $180 or pull that crossmember and buy/find the block brackets? Worse case is $100 for the block brackets plus buying new rubber mounts for like $15. Any pros or cons to either setup? Is paying the extra bucks worth not fucking with pulling a crossmember?

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I'm gonna race something soon... damnit.

i would put in a milk crate to sit on to get the brakes working 1st.
And also check the upper ball joints. those are the load bearing joints in this design. (IMO) also check the lower controal bushing, seems to be the one that gets the most wear.. Most likely everything else except the rear leaf springs are most likely good to go..
If you can fabracate.. heck set the engine in there and weld soem brackets yourself...
If not, then the 180.00 for the bulltear kit is the cheapest way out, again IMO..stick the engine and trans and rear end in there, with the 304 you most likely will have no problems with the rearend at all, i ran a stock 10 bolt (4 cyl.) spirit rearend for 2 years,, no issues at all.
Take the door panels off and see if it has crash beams in the middle of the doors, if so.. they need to go,, i saved 80 lbs when i lightened my doors on the spirit. just keep in mind that 100 lbs. is worth .10 off or on your et slip.... and yes, that undercaoting does weigh. Good luck, and mostly have fun with it!

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My Dog is Faster then your Dog
Mini Mike.

I found a cheaper kit then bulltear.. if its the right one check it out.. http://amxmgs.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=31&zenid=2b67bda9b5545e260b4a194ead19d952

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Thats not a oil leak, thats sweat fromall the horsepower...

I'd figure once you add everything up, bullqueer would be cheaper and a hole helluva lot easier ...the stock rig is gonna have you pulling two crossmembers, and all that entails, then you gotta buy the $100 brackets, tax and shippping, then you gotta get stock rubbers, and they are another 30bux for a pair if you get em cheap, tax and travel, beer and bandaids, plus the stock setup is a real whore trying to get the engine stabbed in, jeezus I hate to give my money to mc but that as gotta be the easy way to do it and save some $$ too. how do you do it? just like anything one step at a time. cheap is one thing, but if you gotta blow money go a step ahead. if you need a fuel tank, go ahead and get a safety cell. i'd get a running engine and drivetrain in it, and go through the brakes. you can redo stock brakes for pretty cheap. and what you have is fine. as far as the frontend goes, you can hit it the same way, worst stuff first. poof your a runner. ignition? autozone can fix you up with a motorcraft electronic box and rebuilt dist for cheap. you probably have a stock sparker in the 304. a points setup need a coils and a piece of wire to the battery to run. so it's just like building anything. look at the whole thing and you just talked yourself out of it. BUY SOME MOUNTS and drop and engine in. thats usually enough to get me going and finish all the other small easy stuff. on thing at a time built the pyramids

I think I got a petronix dist. over here.. Let me know if ya want it.6 pack dude, I probably wont use it again, might have a motorcrap out in the Jeep if you prefer.

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Thats not a oil leak, thats sweat fromall the horsepower...

Thanks guys for the help! I pretty much figured that getting the engine and drivetrain in is the biggest step. Then from there work on getting the suspension/steering worked out. The only bad side about the brakes is that if the rotors wont turn then I'm out $75 a piece. I have never had to spend that much on a rotor! Anyway, I'll probably get the bulltear mounts and get that on the way and see what that leads to.

The motor: 1970 304 (with a 72 360 crank) that had a cam swap years ago and I noticed had helper springs. From what I gather the motor was rebuilt about 10-15 years ago and should only have about 40-50k miles on her. When Dad ran it years ago in our 72 Javelin he said it ran harder than the 360. So it has some potential to be strong.

The tranny: It's a 727 with a shift kit that was rebuilt 15 plus years ago and should have even less mileage (30k or less). We do have a converter for it, but back in the day the car would not even move until about 2k rpm and would whine constantly. So, no idea if it's good or not.

The rear: Unknown piece of shit that I know nothing about other than it maybe works and is a posi.

What I need to score for the 304 is an alternator bracket, alternator, some sort of dizzy (i'll chat with you more about that Dennis), points conversion kit (Crane XR-i is THE SHIT!!), and valve seals. The big question I have right now is the fuel system. Since this is a race only car and the stock tank is most likely not worth saving, should I run a fuel cell? If so, what size? 5 gal, 8 gal? Should I run a stock fuel pump, or a carter high volume, or go ahead and switch to a electric pump? I'm not trying to blow money, but don't want to really re-buy parts later on. Any suggestion for a seat and belts?

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I'm gonna race something soon... damnit.

check around you can get the rotors cheaper.. I got mine at Orielys, got a spare set too. If I remember right they were $80.00 for the pair. I got my Concord brakes , out of a wrecking yard in Kennedale for $50.00 spindles out.there was a couple of AMCS on 820 @ THE kENNEDALE EXIT. Apache salvage I think its called.big junk yard on the corner. 73 Jav @Riverside too, not sure what brakes it had. back half is gone.

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Thats not a oil leak, thats sweat fromall the horsepower...

For an alternator, I put a GM two-wire unit on my Rebel. Didn't take long to make a couple of spacers and a modify some unknown bracket to work.
The old Motorola alternators were good, but the GM type is a nice upgrade.

i'd say you need a plan and a lot of bullshit too.